Towing a Lincoln Towncar behind a Class A. Really???

[W7JZE]

So, with an RV purchase on next year's horizon and a big ole' Lincoln Towncar in my garage, what to do?

My wife is a bit disabled so the large Towncar is great for wheelchair and her "go-bag" as well as a mobile amateur radio installation. Plenty of room. It has a four body trunk :whistle:! (Hey, I was born in 'Jersey :D).

I have worked in electronic sales for, well... forever, so a big car is also what I currently need to haul customers around... Until I retire.

I have heard of a "Remco Transmission Pump" that will let you tow a Towncar with four wheels flat on the ground, but I know little about them and wonder... how do I know if it fails 1/2 way through a trip? Yikes! Very expensive failure!!!

Also the Towncar is a heavy vehicle and that also makes me scratch my head a little... Although, some of the the RV rigs I see cruising up and down I-5 in central CA every day seem to say one heavy car should be OK. Surely not as heavy as the RV towing a trailer which is also towing a car... YIKES!

So, any advice here? Can the Towncar be safely towed and if so, any suggestions?

Thanks for pondering on this...

73,

Bill - W7JZE

[NN5I]

A town car would be pretty heavy for most RVs, even most of the largest ones.

I have read that the Renegade Ikon can tow up to 30,000 pounds; if so, a town car would be no problem. But the Ikon is unusual in many ways, including size and cost (about a million bucks).

Most RVs, even really big, expensive ones like Newell or Foretravel, would be at hazard of sudden loss of control in emergency with as much as 5000 pounds towed. Check the towing specs carefully before deciding, since death is so darned permanent.

[wa8yxm]

Well, if you get a DP as one person I know did, you can get a nice portable Garage (Also known as an enclosed trailer) and tow it that way... One thing you absolutly need to know.

Lincolns, at least modern ones, have a fancy suspension, there is a special procedure needed for towing, EVEN IF IT IS TOWED ON A FULL TRAILER.. (I believe the procedure involves opening trunk, flipping a switch and re-closing trunk but do not quote me on that without reading your manual or chatting with the service manager at your favorite dealer).

I know this cause I worked with some tow drivers for a bit. Even drove a tow truck (Empty) once (Returned it to the yard cause driver was temp-disabled)

[W7JZE]

A town car would be pretty heavy for most RVs, even most of the largest ones.

I have read that the Renegade Ikon can tow up to 30,000 pounds; if so, a town car would be no problem. But the Ikon is unusual in many ways, including size and cost (about a million bucks).

Most RVs, even really big, expensive ones like Newell or Foretravel, would be at hazard of sudden loss of control in emergency with as much as 5000 pounds towed. Check the towing specs carefully before deciding, since death is so darned permanent.

Hi Carl,

Thank you very much for your input. Being a man of "moderate means" the Ikon, and other expensive RV options, can't be considered unless my lottery ticket hits :).

The lessening, or loss, of control in an emergency is also a "grave"(:D) concern for me.

Valuable input. Many thanks.

[W7JZE]

Well, if you get a DP as one person I know did, you can get a nice portable Garage (Also known as an enclosed trailer) and tow it that way... One thing you absolutly need to know.

Lincolns, at least modern ones, have a fancy suspension, there is a special procedure needed for towing, EVEN IF IT IS TOWED ON A FULL TRAILER.. (I believe the procedure involves opening trunk, flipping a switch and re-closing trunk but do not quote me on that without reading your manual or chatting with the service manager at your favorite dealer).

I know this cause I worked with some tow drivers for a bit. Even drove a tow truck (Empty) once (Returned it to the yard cause driver was temp-disabled)

Hi John,

HMmmm... even more considerations, re: towing the Towncar.

I've got a dealer visit scheduled for the Towncar, end of May. I'll ask the maintenance manager there about that suspension switch. You are right about a switch being in the trunk. There is a big yellow "LOOK AT ME" handle on it. I seem to remember the AAA guy doing something with it when he changed a flat tire for me a few years ago.

Thank you both very much for your insight here.

Newbie guy is grateful :).

73,

Bill - W7JZE

[Radio]

A town car would be pretty heavy for most RVs, even most of the largest ones.

I once saw a diesel pusher towing an F150 4x4 SuperCab.

Not that I would recommend it, but the guy was doing it. And he passed me running "bobtail" in my F150. My speedometer said 65 mph.

[W5DOK]

Towing a large vehicle behind a class A diesel pusher is no big problem for the coach. The towed vehicle is another can of worms. A lot of folks tow Hummers, 3/4 trucks, race car trailers with car and all equipment, even 1 ton trucks behind their DP. I routinely tow a trailer that weighs in the area of 12K behind my Monaco. The Lincoln, on the other hand, requires special handling.

[N3LYT]

Another thing to think about is brakes a full size Lincoln probably is around the 2 1/2 ton mark.

[NN5I]

Towing a large vehicle behind a class A diesel pusher is no big problem for the coach.

True, you might never even know it's back there -- until you have to do the following two things simultaneously: (1) steer evasively, and (2) brake to slow down. The behavior suddeny changes. I have seen the result, twice. As a result, although my motor home is a class A diesel pusher, I ain't towing any large vehicles any time soon. My little Ranger pickup is about the limit.

In one case, a big Tiffin towing a big box trailer (perhaps with a car inside) jackknifed, slid across a narrow median, overturned, and was hit by a Suburban. That was about two years ago, on US 377 just north of Cresson, TX. I saw it (the result, not the crash) while a passenger in a small class B. It was impressive. I don't know what he was avoiding, perhaps something as small as a dog.

The other was a big Foretravel that was towing a Suburban, jackknifed, overturned, and slid off on its side onto the shoulder. I don't know what he was avoiding either.

WI5G, my old friend Bud Johnson, who lives in Cresson, was for a long time the service manager in a Foretravel dealership (in Garland, TX). I was visiting him there at the shop when I saw that second result. It was a very expensive repair job. He told me it's not uncommon, or not nearly uncommon enough anyway, because (as you -- sort of -- mention) many people pay no attention to the towing limitations of motor homes.

Moral: read the manual, and obey.

[W5DOK]

My point is that you have to know the limitations of yourself and your vehicle. You see far more 18 wheeler type commercial trucks overturned on the highways than RV's and those are professional operators. It's rare to see a wreck involving an RV. You mentioned Foretravel. I was at their facility in Nacadoches (wasn't aware of one elsewhere) and they had a wrecked coach in their shop,(Not a Foretravel) that was a victim of the infamous Goodyear GY670"s. The service manager said that far more RV's wreck due to blow outs than any other reason. They just react differently in that situation and the drivers may not have the expertise to handle a catastrophic tire failure. After all, in some states nothing is required to operate a 50K pound + motor home except a class c license with no medical exam. Some states, (Texas included) at least require the operator to pass a driving test to demonstrate their proficiency to operate the vehicle. If your vehicle towing capacity is 20K, then don't go over 20k. Also it doesn't do any good to have a vehicle rated at 50k if your tires capacity is only 40k. My gross is 47k with a towing capacity of 20k. I usually scale at about 58k.

[W7JZE]

Learning a lot here... Many thanks for all of the commentary :worthy:!

[W5DOK]

Buy the RV that best suits your travel objectives and enjoy. I'm not full time, but I spend at least 8 months out of the year in my MH and love it. Summers in the cool country and winters on the coast. As for towing the Lincoln, a transmission pump will work. Never personally seen one fail. Assuming the Lincoln weighs 7k or less, towing it should be no real issue if it can be towed at all. If you're not comfortable driving a large vehicle, there a re a few training courses available in places like Lazy Daze in Florida. You still have a little time before you hit the road, so you can really prepare for your travel adventures.
Enjoy
Doc

[NN5I]

You see far more 18 wheeler type commercial trucks overturned on the highways than RV's and those are professional operators.

Yes of course, Doc. I have seen perhaps ten times as many jackknifed semis as RVs. But then I see perhaps a hundred times as many un-jackknifed semis as RVs daily, even in Florida during the tourist season.

But really we agree -- we're both merely saying that RVers, like everyone else, ought to know and abide by the limitations of their particular vehicles.

[wa8yxm]

Most big Diesels have 10,000 pound hitches and may well have towing capacity that goes beyond that even. Towing a Lincoln or a big F-150 or even a 250, not a problem

When I worked as a roofer I drove an F-350 custom, 10,000 GVW option, Many Diesels can to that truck fully loaded... That's how much they can tow.

Which is why I suggested a portable garage (ENclosed auto trailer) if it had the towing capacity.

[NN5I]

Most big Diesels have 10,000 pound hitches and may well have towing capacity that goes beyond that even.

Now, durn it, I'm going to have to dig out the owner manual again and see whether I'm underrating my 37-footer. Stand by ...

Well, lessee --

maximum GVWR = 23000 according to the Freightliner data sticker;

maximum GCWR = 26,660. This is impled, rather than stated, in the really lame Damon owner manual;

difference between the two = 3660; this is the trailer weight I can pull when the MH is maxed out by its own weight + fuel, passengers, fresh water, grey water, black water, propane, and the stuff I carry around. My little Ranger pickup will come close to that.

Some others, larger, will pull more. Some, even if larger, will pull less. Me, I'll stick with that Ranger as my maximum.

[wa8yxm]

By The Way JZE.... I must say I like your Avatar.. I guess you are a resistor (Cause in that diagram that's the part that gets hot. :)

By the way did you know electric space heaters are a very rare device, They are 100% efficient. . Why is this? Well first.. that is what your Avatar is, an electric battery operated space heater,, but more importantly.. IN an electrical system, all losses are expressed as HEAT, and since HEAT is the desired product, thus losses are recovered.

[NN5I]

By the way did you know electric space heaters are a very rare device, They are 100% efficient.

100% efficient, yes. Rare? I see'em all the time.

Light bulbs, motors, TV sets -- as space heaters they're all 100% efficient. All of the energy they use turns to heat. In the case of light bulbs some of it goes out the window as light, before hitting something outside and heating it. But all of it eventually heats something.

[wa8yxm]

On the other hand you see far more Semi Trucks than you do RV's so logially you'd see far More Semi Truck involved accidents. Statistics is a female canine don't you know, can be used to prove black is white if you want to.

I do agree you need to know how to control your trailer, no matter how big it is, That big Tiffin NN5I mentioned.. I wonder how fast it was going pre-Jackknife,, 55, 65, 75, 85.. I have seen several RVers who seen to have not gotten the memo.

What memo?

The RV lifestyle is not about getting there first, or (With one exception) Fastest, it is about getting there with a few stops along the way to smell the roses..

That one exception is the salt flats time trials... There EVERYTHING is about being fastest. But that is a closed course, and thus you are not going to hit any other vehicles.

[N3LYT]

The tow rating is pretty exaggerated maybe to sell stuff. I have a Tacoma with the factory tow package it's max tow rating is 6,500# it's weight is around 5,300# now that's a prime example of the tail wagging the dog.

[W5DOK]

It's almost always never about whether or not the vehicle can tow it, but rather can it stop it. One ton dually pickups are used as hot shot trucks towing loads over 40k. Difference is that the trailers have brakes that will stop the trucks. Truly the tail wagging the dog. My trailer brakes can stop my 50k motor home.

[NN5I]

Truly the tail wagging the dog.

You meant to say, truly the trail wagging the drag. Right?

[W7JZE]

It's almost always never about whether or not the vehicle can tow it, but rather can it stop it. One ton dually pickups are used as hot shot trucks towing loads over 40k. Difference is that the trailers have brakes that will stop the trucks. Truly the tail wagging the dog. My trailer brakes can stop my 50k motor home.

You meant to say, truly the trail wagging the drag. Right?

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away I used to tow a 30 ft travel trailer behind a severely underpowered 1977 Malibu Classic.

There were electric brakes on the TT that I could of course activate from the driver's seat. I could do this independently of whether I was braking the Malibu or not.

The TT brakes would stop the whole rig, albeit slowly... but those electric brakes would stop it. Seems to be a well engineered system. I see above a trailer behind your MH will stop your whole rig.

Not sure how (or if) a car being towed behind a MH has it's brakes applied??? Maybe they don't ??? Cars don't have electric brakes... HMmmm...

I am really naive about this MH stuff. Sorry for the (probably) bone-headed question :confused:.

[N3LYT]

They make a system that applies the vehicle brakes with a mechanical/electrical system pretty pricey.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/towing/braking-system/hopkins/brake-buddy/bb-vantage-select.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=partsshopping&utm_campaign=partsfeed&gclid=CPKl1IH9y74CFetlOgodTFIADA

[W5DOK]

In my case the air brakes from the coach apply the air brakes on the trailer or toad.

[wa8yxm]

Another thing to think about is brakes a full size Lincoln probably is around the 2 1/2 ton mark.

Actually... ANY car you tow, you should put an aux brake system on it.

Ready brake and the blue ox Auto Stop are surge brake systems, Theory has it they should be self adjusting after initial set up,, Clip a cable on and go. (Well 2 cables)

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator is an electric/hydrauilc system, Depending on the towed's brake system it will either activate the electric boost pump (Hydro bost) or provide an alternate vacuum source (Vacuum boost) so there is no need to play the press the pedal half a dozen times game.. Plug in one 2-wire cable, and clip on the break-a-way and you are good to tow. Fully adjustable from the Motor driver's seat this unit gives you more control over your towed's brakes than a semi driver has over his trailer brakes.

M&G, if it fits, is an air/hydrauilc for motor homes with air brakes (They make one for non-Air motor homes too) but it may or may not fit, Due to it's design again you do not have to play the press the pedal game.

Many others liek Air Force one, Invisible brakes, and so on, are also quick to hook up and unhook. One time installation only.

Break in a Box systems like Apolo or Brake buddy must be installed EVERY TIME, plus you have to play the press the pedal several times game as part of the install.. Due to the amount of work (not that much but way more than plug/clip) involved it is far too easy to either 1: Say "Oh forget it" for a short trip or 2: Make a mistake, which costs you either a brake job or prevents it from functioning.

Either way I do not recommend them unless you either change towed's often or have a stable fo towed's you pick from every trip.

[NN5I]

Me, I think it's more fun to spell it toad.

[wa8yxm]

NN5I I have to agree that for many towing too much "Trailer" (be it a real trailer or a car towed on either a dolly (most dangerous) or 4 down) can be dangerous.

Yet Semi drivers regularly tow over 20,000 pounds with less than 20,000 pounds of tractor (Way less) and though yes, Jackknifes happen, there are many drivers who have managed to steer around an incident and miss it completly or keep control of their Rigs under very trying conditions... Now.. I do know how they do it academically (not the same as being able to do it myself) but they have the ability to use only part of the brakes.. Trailer brakes can be disabled or engaged without the use of tractor brakes, And some of the tractor's brakes can be disabled as well, by means of controls in the cab.. ONLY one RV braking system gives you anything approaching this level of control (US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator).. I have not been trained in the proper use of these systems so I can not tell anyone how to do it, but I know people who have used them and managed to keep control of a Semi. Not sure I could do it.

I know all the theory. it is the practice I'm not sure of. And yes, it increases your stopping distance when you use only partial brakes so you need to make sure you follow well behind the folks in front of you.

Another factor in most crashes..... I used to stand on a bridge on occasion and watch the traffic pass below (Pedisterian bridge) and later do the same thing via remote camera (My preferred way to do it, safer) from my office.

I was taught to time from when the car in front of me say goes under a bridge to when I go under, 2 seconds is .. the absolute minimum, 3-4 is better for Motor Homes Im told.

1 is about average for motorists in and around Detroit, some less than that.

It takes 3/4 second for the average person to react or so say my teachers.

If you are 1/2 second behind the car in front of you.... CRASH!