Radio "enclosure"

[ke0me]

I am working on making an "enclosure" (intentionally vague description) to hold my entire shack, rig, PS, tuner, dummy load, etc.

I don't have space to keep the entire shack set up, and it takes time to set up and tear down, so I'm looking for a way to have everything ready to go except for 3 connections, AC, ground, antenna.

appx size will be 12 x 15 x 17.

right now I'm planning on a simple lightweight wooden box with one shelf, with hinged front and back panels.

Looking for any ideas others have used to make a compact all-in-one enclosure.

TNX

[wa8yxm]

I would add two more things.

12 volt

And a ventelation fan.

[Jpatrickc]

I'm interested in what people come up with. I may want to doing something like this in a few years. I would probably add a gel or Lithium Ion battery and an led light to light the front of the rig or rigs and the work area in front of the enclosure.

Pat

[ke0me]

thanks for the replies.

As I am planning this, I am including the 12V DC power supply in the box.
With a 6 ft cord, I can connect to my small Honda generator for the AC as needed.

Didn't plan to work off 12V only, but could add the termination points as needed.

[N3LYT]

Batteries are the killers they are heavy! If you use a Lithium Ion battery be careful of what you charge it with they can catch fire from thermal run away with a charger that's not designed for the pack. A 5 HP power supply seems a bit of over kill I have a 100 watt solar panel to charge the batteries lot less noise both for the ears and the radio. I have outfitted my camper with 50 amp Anderson connectors at both ends of the camper it allows me to use the 100 watt solar panel either end and the radio where ever I'm parked and just carry my gear in Pelican cases.

[Radio]

On the other hand I have used a single group 27 marine battery for the entirety of field day. Yeah they are heavy. But nothing ever goes wrong with them and they can be charged with a truck and jumper cables.

Perhaps a site that does woodworking projects could help. I was thinking something like a really fancy breadbox. And if Jonny Nogood peeps in the window and sees nothing but a breadbox, he might just move on.

[NN5I]

A box made of 1/16" aircraft-grade plywood (or less expensive plywood, but I think only aircraft-grade is available at 1/16"), glued at the top and bottom corners to 1/4" square spruce strips (use T-88 structural adhesive for super-strength), would be very lightweight. The shelf could be built in, the same way. Front and rear covers could be similar, with lightweight brass piano hinge on one edge and a simple latch on the other. You could have rectangular openings in the front for the radios' faces, and round holes at the back for the various cables, fan, etc. Materials cost would be somewhere around $150, which seems like a lot until you consider the already-expended cost of the radios etc. And it would be strong, light, durable, and generally classy. I have a couple half-sheets of 1/16" 5-ply aircraft-grade mahogany-faced plywood that I've saved for years for just such projects. It's gorgeous stuff.

... A 5 HP power supply seems a bit of over kill ...

Huh? Where'd that come from? Examining every other post in the thread, I don't find anyone suggesting (or even mentioning) a 5-HP power supply. Five HP is not quite 3.75 KW, and a 5 HP engine can run a generator of perhaps 3 KW if the generator is very efficient -- which doesn't seem excessive for a station anyway, especially if you want to run an air conditioner too.

[electricflyer]

Here is my setup. I have a Yaesu FT-450, a LDG 200 Pro antenna tuner and a Radio Shack 25A switching power supply in my to go setup. For home use I use a Astron RS35M for power. It is made with luan plywood. Size is 10" wide, 11 3/4" high and 11" deep. It is held together by aluminum "L" channel on all the corners and to attach each shelf. I have a front and back piece of luan that is held in place by two pieces of threaded rod through the plastic tubing seen on each side of the tuner, and held in place by wing nuts. The only thing I would have done different is make it slightly wider to store the microphone in the case. I can get the mike in there as it is but another 1/2" would make it a little better. Power connections are made with Power Poles so I can move the rig between different power supplies (25A, 35A and deep cycle battery). For mobile use I have a Eagle One vertical antenna. My FT-450 is an older model and does not have back lit controls so I also have a clip on LED light for dark use.

800[

[N3LYT]

Huh? Where'd that come from? Examining every other post in the thread, I don't find anyone suggesting (or even mentioning) a 5-HP power supply. Five HP is not quite 3.75 KW, and a 5 HP engine can run a generator of perhaps 3 KW if the generator is very efficient -- which doesn't seem excessive for a station anyway, especially if you want to run an air conditioner too.[/QUOTE]

I think you get the point even at 3.5 HP (little Honda) it's a lot of power for a 100 watt HF throw a kilowatt amp in the mix then it's another story. I use a 100 watt solar panel to charge my batteries then run the radio.

[Radio]

Meanwhile, back at the topic...

http://www.grampasworkshop.net/hayesprj.html

This little breadbox could be made a bit deeper and hide your rig from Jimmy No-good. It's kind of cute deal. With todays tiny rigs it might fit just fine the way it is.

[ke0me]

Carl,
You must have read my mind!
That method with plywood sides and small square strips is how I plan to proceed.

I was looking at the hinged front laying down for a work surface, maybe with info under laminate.
The rear could be mostly hinged, that way the air flow would be better.

PS- the Honda generator I mentioned in my post on 3-10 is the EU-1000, which is 900 watt continuous output.

If I could figure out how to attach a pic I could provide a front sketch layout.

[ke0me]

attached is a very very rough sketch of my idea of the front view of the box.

note that this is designed just to hold the normal shack items in a portable box, this was not planned for battery or solar power, although a person could modify as they desire.

I needed to move the shack around as a unit since I don't have a dedicated place inside the 5er.

This hopefully will stimulate ideas for others who have somewhat similar goals.

[NN5I]

Carl, You must have read my mind!

Just one among my many talents.

[N3LYT]

Check the pawn shops there usually are great audio boxes for cheap money from bands that have broken up or a musician that never made the big time.

[ke0me]

Work is progressing slowly on my box project, and I have another question.

Will ungrounded pieces of metal (screws, nails, brackets) in the box be a source of potential noise?

I have seen where every piece of metal in a radio site needs to be grounded, but I think this might be overkill in this instance.

Comments?

[NN5I]

As long as they don't touch each other, nails and such shouldn't matter.

If they touch, and corrode a bit, the points where they touch could turn into diodes and generate noise.

Screws, for example, that hold metal brackets in place ought not to be a problem if the screws are tight and there aren't, for example, brass screws holding unplated steel brackets. So use stainless screws for steel brackets, or paint the whole thing after construction so nothing corrodes.

Or don't worry about it. All those pieces are way smaller than a wavelength at HF and VHF, so really they almost don't exist.

You could hold the whole thing together by gluing it with T-88. Use brads to hold it until the adhesive sets (24 hours), then pull out the brads. This is often done in aircraft-building, not for electronic reasons but to eliminate the weight of the brads. I kid you not. The motto in airplane construction is simplificate, and add lightness, and is taken seriously.

[ke0me]

Carl,
Thanks for the info.

After I finish painting everything, it should prevent the corrosion.

I will post picks as soon as I can place radios inside for a layout shot.

[coupevillefish]

I observed a couple of interesting and simple go boxes while helping with communicationsat the Whidbey v Marathon today. They had simply taken one of those squarish storage boxes, the kind with the 2 lid halves that close together, and used 3 pieces of about 3/8" plywood to make shelves. One was on the bottom as the container laid on it's side with the other two spaced to divide the space into thirds. The shelves were fastened to the ends of the container usinget small bolts and medal "L" brackets. I assume the radios were fastened to the shelves for transport but do not know for sure. I didn't see where the power and coax were run. Each box held 3 or 4 radios plus power supplies tuners, etc.

[ke0me]

Did u happen to get any pics?

I'm always looking for ideas.

This project is a design as you go process, or as has been said, "measure once, cut 2-3-4 times as needed".

Anyway, its in the "paint shop" now, might take a while to dry in this south Florida humidity.

Any suggestions on how to securely hold down radios that don't have bolt flanges?

This box is kind of a set it down and operate, only need to connect power, ant and ground.

[coupevillefish]

I didn't think to get pics, but they belong to a club member so I'll see if I can get more info.

[Radio]

Any suggestions on how to securely hold down radios that don't have bolt flanges?

Cut two pieces of 1/2" angle aluminum (Home Depot) slightly wider than the radio. Drill a hole for a long bolt at each end that would attach to the shelf. You have the option of bolting it up under a shelf or onto the top of a shelf. I would glue a thin rubber padding to avoid scratching the radio and to keep it from slipping.

[NN5I]

Cut two pieces of 1/2" angle aluminum (Home Depot) slightly wider than the radio. Drill a hole for a long bolt at each end that would attach to the shelf. You have the option of bolting it up under a shelf or onto the top of a shelf. I would glue a thin rubber padding to avoid scratching the radio and to keep it from slipping.

Interesting. It set me thinking. Depending upon the width of the radio, you might go to an auto parts house and look at auto-battery clamps. These often are padded angles with a piece to tie them together at the top (across the top of the battery or radio) and a way to pass a bolt vertically down through the surface on which the battery (radio) rests.

For example: BATTERY HOLD DOWN (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-6-7-8-in.-wide-universal-battery-hold-down-kit-00585/17190203-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15001|L3*15608) -- you might have to extend or shorten the rod that goes across.

[Jackmaster]

Sounds more like a Go-Box. I've built several using plastic tool boxes available at Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight. Easy to carry and the top storage compartments are ideal for small items. My latest has a 12V DC power supply from a 12V power supply and battery from an AT&T U-Verse DVR. Terminals for antenna, AC and DC power along with a digital multimeter. A 12V to 5V & 9V power supply provides auxillary power for a LED light (5V). If you don't drill and holes in the sides or bottom, they're water tight for rain and water puddles.

[ke0me]

Thanks for the ideas. Luckily, The box is built so I have access under each shelf to drill the holes.
Accidentally, I never glued the top on, so that will help getting this all together.

Radio box temporarily sidelined for installation of the SteadyFast stabilizing arms for the 5er.
Hot sun, lots of steel drilling chips from drilling the 5er frame, covered with dripping oil from trying to keep the bit lubricated and not too hot. fun.

http://www.steadyfast.com/index.html

[electricflyer]

Here is a repost of my radio go box. I added another photo that may be slightly better. I used 1/4" luan and used aluminum angle 3/4"x3/4" on the corners and to hold each shelf . The dimensions are 12"hx10"w11"d. I should have made it another inch wider and another inch deeper for a place to store the mic and jumper wires. I used power poles/sermos connectors for power which is what I also use for the deep cycle battery and the Astron power supply on my desk. The radio is a Yaesu FT-450, the tuner is a LDG AT-200pro and the power supply is a Radio Shack 25A switching power supply. I have a front and back panel that is held in place with threaded rod and wing nuts thru the tubes seen on each side of
the tuner. I would like to put a carry handle on the top but that would need to be reinforced before I do that as it may be a little heavy for 1/4" luan to hold.
812

813

[coupevillefish]

Finally got pictures of one of the Go Boxes I mentioned earlier. Right now, it contains 2 UHF/VHF radios, power supply, power distribution board, and a 2m/440 cross-band repeater. He plans to add an ICOM 706 HF. He will probably put that on the bottom shelf, which is secured to the bottom, because of the weight.

The upper 1/4" shelves are not fastened in yet. They need to be able to pull out to reach the radios and other equipment. He plans on securing just the front edge to keep them secure when the box is tipped up. The nice thing about this arrangement is that several boxes can be stacked for transport.

You can see antenna ports on the side. He just runs the electric out the front.

[Jpatrickc]

Why not do a second piece of aluminum angle above the shelf and allow the shelf to fit between the lower angle and the upper angle. He would need to flip the lower angle but that way he could pull out the shelf anytime.

Pat

[ke0me]

Here is pic of the almost finished box.
Contains:
ICOM 7200
Power supply
Antenna Tuner
Dummy Load
TVI filter
Ground bus bar

[NN5I]

That is absolutely elegant.

[Stevenik]

:radio:I located an old Forest Service comm center truck box that had been removed from the truck. It has double steel walls, insulated, with 7 windows and 2 doors with heavy deadbolts built in. The aft four feet feature an isolated room with heavy shelving and double-doors and locks. Overall, it is 12x8 feet (8x8 for the main room) and 7 feet floor to ceiling. I paid less for this than I would for the wood to build a simple box. The "extra" room houses my deep-cycle batteries and solar controlling system.