View Single Post
Old 04-23-2012, 09:18 AM   #7
wa8yxm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mobile, on the road
Posts: 1,139
Send a message via AIM to wa8yxm Send a message via Yahoo to wa8yxm Send a message via Skype™ to wa8yxm
Default

No need to yank the furnace..

Step one, check the T-stat, do this by manually connecting the furnace control leads (Just 2 wires in most cases) if it works properly it's the stat NOT the furnace.

On my Attwood (I am assuming Surburan is similar) to replace the control board all I had to "yank" was the outside cover, then I loosened one wing nut, removed the board and it's backer, disconnected some wires, Got a DINOSAUR board from American RV parts and slipped it in place.. The Dino board I got replaces several Attwood boards as well as several Suburban boards depending on the position of a single jumper (Computer configuration type jumper) on the board. NOTE there are 2 or 3 different "universal" boards and I'm not sure which one you use.

I will say the following about the Dino board.

Though I never worked in the field, I am a certified electronics technician, I have designed and built some of my own hardware for Ham Radio and the like. The "Look and feel" of the dino board was first rate.. (the OEM, not so much) Looked to be very well built. Second.. I have a theory as to what killed my OEM board (I won't go into it here) and though I can not prove the theory. It appears the folks at Dinosaur boards share my theory. as there is a protection device on the board that did not exist on the OEM.. and from it's nature and position I suspect it is there to prevent just exactly what I think happened to my OEM board.

That said, the DIno board was dropped in in Jan, so it will be a few years before I can say for sure it's better... But what I said above applies.. It sure gave me a warm feeling, in more ways than degrees F/C.
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote